NEWFOUNDLAND WEST AND NORTH (PART 2

EASTERN CANADA JOURNEY OF DISCOVERY

NEWFOUNDLAND WEST AND NORTH (PART 2)

THE TABLELANDS, GROS MORNE 

JUNE 18-21, 2011

TROUT RIVER

The following day we drove about two hours north to Gros Morne National Park.  The park is split into south and north sections, divided by fjordlike Bonne Bay.  Flanked by towering round-topped glaciated mountains that fall steeply into the sea, the bay plays summer host to a variety of whale species.  These cetaceans come in search of capelin, a small herring sized fish that move into the bays to spawn toward the end of June.  I read that Gros Morne NP is like the Galapagos Islands of geology and after a visit to the new Discovery Center in Woody Point you understand the basis of the description.  Literally, there are rocks and formations here that are found nowhere else on earth!  The most spectacular is the Tablelands on the south side.  Rising 1500 feet above the sea, these barren mustard colored mountains and plateau were originally part of the earth’s mantle, ordinarily found thousands of feet below the planet’s crust.  Millions of years ago, however, when two tectonic plates collided, the lower plate, which usually subducts, or goes under the prevailing higher plate, instead overrode it, leaving a large portion of the deepest part of the earth on its surface.  The most unusual rock here is serpentine, a green stone that is heavily veined and is completely unique on the planet.  Virtually no vegetation grows on the Tablelands, since this rock does not break down into receptive soil.  A very easy trail leads along the base of the Tablelands. Continuing on along the same road, we arrived at the small fishing village of Trout River.  We dined at the widely acclaimed Seaside Restaurant (call/write for reservations, 709-451-3461, vmanorgrosmorne@eastlink.ca).  There were many specialties, but Gale had the fresh cod and I went for the capelin.  Not only do whales eat them!  These little fish, lightly pan fried, are eaten whole, head, fins, guts and all.  Very tasty crunchy mouthfuls!

We spent the night at the lovely Red Mantle Lodge (www.redmantlelodge.ca) in Shoal Brook.  While checking in, Rodney, the owner said, “Wanna see a moose?”, like he was hawking off-color products in Times Square.  But this was more like Animal Planet, as we peeked out the dining room window to see Bullwinkle, sporting a new set of handlebar antlers, chowing down on the back yard grass.

BULLWINKLE

FOX SPARROW

YELLOW-BELLIED FLYCATCHER

Despite fairly chilly and windy weather, the next day we decided to hike up to the base of Gros Morne mountain, in the north section of the park.  The mountain is very unique, both from geological and wildlife perspectives.  Highly rounded from multiple episodes of glaciation, the crown of the mountain, usually capped with fog, is almost completely barren of vegetation due to extreme weather conditions.  Relict species from the last ice age, like caribou, snowshoe hare, rock ptarmigan and other usual tundra nesting species like horned lark and American Pipit can be found on the summit.  To protect them, access to the top is permitted only after July 1.  To get there, a two-mile climb through the forest is required, then a very steep ascent up a gully filled with scree - loose quartz rocks that slip and slide under your feet while making finger nail across the blackboard sounds.  The first two miles is moderately hard, but the final climb is extremely difficult.  Bring lots of water, food, insect repellent and blister pads for your hiking boot encased feet.  Once you reach the top, be prepared for bad weather, fog and cold, in treacherous conditions that can change rapidly.  It’s too dangerous to come down the same way you went up, so hikers must cross the summit and circle around the back of the mountain to return.  It’s an arduous full-day excursion.  On the other hand, on a clear day, the views from the top are nothing short of spectacular!  We only went to the base of the mountain, gaining elevation almost all the way.  Many birds sang from the forest and we were able to see Yellow-bellied Flycatcher, many Magnolia Warblers, Bay-breasted Warbler, Northern Waterthrush, Ruby-crowned Kinglets, sweet and loud singing Fox Sparrow and huge dark American Robins.  These large robins are actually the ones that winter in Connecticut.  When we returned to the parking lot, we were greeted by a cow moose and her newborn calf, which appeared and disappeared back into the dense forest like apparitions.  Dinner and the night were in Rocky Harbour.  There are many accommodations here and we found a little jewel of a restaurant - Earle’s - on the main drag.  Quiet and unassuming, all the fresh local seafood can be found here at a lower price than the other popular tourist eateries.  I had about the best halibut dinner ever and Gale enjoyed cod stuffed with snow crab.

AMERICAN ROBIN

We followed the Long Range of mountains north as we skirted Newfoundland’s western coastline.  Most still had accumulations of snow on their slopes and the meltwater flowed rapidly to the sea in numerous creeks and rivers.  Along the highway were small subsistence gardens, privately maintained to provide veggies for the residents.  We continued to see more of these garden plots along the road the further north we went.  Other than the small villages along the coast, there isn’t much habitation here.  Each house had its massive pile of cut firewood neatly stacked alongside.  During the winter, using snowmobiles and large sleds with frame boxes on them, residents go into the dense forests to cut wood for the following year, hauling the wood out to the road.  Stacks are piled high and labeled with the owner’s name.  Everyone respects each other’s wood caches, as these are the means for surviving the coming winter.

The Torrent River Salmon Interpretive Center was a worthwhile stop.  This relatively new facility showcases the impressive migrations runs of the anadromous Atlantic Salmon, which can make up to seven runs during its life between the river of its birth and the open sea.  If you visit during the summer, you can use an underwater viewing port to watch wild salmon going upstream.  There are 107 rivers in Newfoundland and Labrador that are used by these magnificent fish and their spawning runs usually begin toward the end of June, with the youngest fish returning first.  

Canada has done a wonderful job with building interpretative centers at its most important historic, geologic and natural history sites, including the one at Port-aux-Choix, which chronicles the prehistorical lives of native Americans in the area.  Dating from almost 5,000 years ago, aboriginal humans inhabited these shores, mainly to enjoy the riches of the sea.  Various peoples lived here, most notably the Dorsets, who were here when Vikings made first landfall 1,000 years ago.  The later Beothuk people were here when Europeans came to stay 400 years ago, but all have disappeared due to disease and other causes.  Contact with disease-bearing Europeans was never a healthy choice for any non-European people.  Most notable was the highly developed technology used by these aboriginal people to hunt seals, with many examples of detachable harpoon heads that could be thrown with a spear, allowing the hunter to retrieve the animal with the attached line.  

Despite the rain and wind, we drove the extra mile out to the Point Riche lighthouse.  Just offshore, a spout shot above the foaming sea - “thar she blows!”  An adult and what seemed to be two calf humpback whales were feeding and cavorting only a few hundred yards out.  With open windows on the leeward side of the car, our binoculars permitted great views of these leviathans  of the deep as they chased capelin and eventually sounded, showing massive flukes for the dive.  While being greatly entertained by the whales, a pod of a dozen Atlantic white-sided dolphins sped by, showing tall sickle-shaped dorsal fins, slash-feeding as they also chased the diminutive fish.  Accompanying the dolphins was a torrent of plunge-diving northern gannets and hundreds of gulls, all after the little fish the dolphins had chased up to the surface.

When here, definitely pay a visit to The Anchor Cafe (709-861-3665) in “downtown” Port-aux-Choix.  All the seafood is fresh and excellent and you can’t beat the seafood chowder.  For dessert, we shared a “figgy duff”, comfort food for Newfoundlanders.  This consists of two steamed puddings, one white (vanilla) and one dark (molasses, raisins, cloves), served steaming hot covered with a warm vanilla sauce.  

Turning east, we cut over toward the “French Coast”, the wild east coast of Newfoundland.  Hard to resist was a turn-off for an Underground Salmon Pool on the Beaver Brook, named one of the Seven Wonders of Newfoundland.  This part of the island is comprised largely of limestone, a chemically basic rock that is soft and easily dissolved by the peaty acidic waters from surface streams.  As a result, the rivers often carve out holes where they simply “disappear” underground, running through unseen passages until they reappear some distance away.  The salmon simply migrate right through these dark passages.  

We detoured to the small fishing village of Conche’, set at the base of the extremely rugged and ragged cliffs that plunge 1000 feet from the Long Range down to the sea, often with magnificent braided waterfalls.  Moose were fairly common and much caution is advised when driving.  Check the roadside ponds and pools as well - we saw breeding pairs of Common Goldeneye, Ring-necked Ducks, and Common Loons.

DENNIS PILGRIM

Just off Route 432 south of the town of Main Brook is the rustically beautiful Tuckamore Lodge (www.tuckamorelodge.com), comprised of several two-story log buildings for accommodations and dining.  Primarily used as an upscale base for hunters and fishermen, the lodge itself is exquisite in both its Scandanavian design and furnishings. The lodge fronts a tranquil lake, available for canoeing, kayaking and fishing, where nesting loons entertain with their eerie calls.  Unusual and ironic is that the Lodge was founded and built by a woman, Barb Genge, but caters almost exclusively to men.  Barb is trying to change this profile by offering a women-only fly-fishing week, which will cater to both the experienced and novices alike.  You couldn’t imagine a better place to do it.  In fact, I decided to spend a cold, wet, windy morning with Dennis Pilgrim, local resident and guide, seeking out native brook trout with my 5-weight Sage fly rod.  We bounced along old rutted logging roads, deeper and deeper into the bush, until Dennis announced, “This ‘ere’s where we’re gettin’ hoot.”  Duh yeh mind walkin’ a bit?”  Sometimes, it wasn’t easy understanding Dennis, with his thick northern Newfie brogue.  The local patois drops the H’s, and adds them to every word starting with a vowel.  As in, “The hairport is height miles nort, hat St. Hanthony, aboot a turty minute drive, if hit’s na rainin’.”  On the other hand, how much do you need to understand when you’re goin’ a troutin’?  

DENNIS FLY-CASTING AT BROUSEY HOLE

A TRIO OF BROOK TROUT FOR THE PAN

We walked about a mile through the bush to the Brousey Hole, a small river that appears, rapidly descends through a series of trout-filled rapids through a broad meadow and then disappears between two cleft rocks, continuing its ultimate course to the sea underground. This is both geology and hydrology with which New Englanders have little familiarity.  Ahhh, but the fish!  We worked the riffles and pools below each rapid and I managed to land 15 beautifully speckled brook trout, ranging from 6-14 inches in length, in about two hours.  Each fish is so magnificently colored with blue and red spots, flaming orange belly and white-lined fins on a chrome-beige background, that it’s like a work of art.  We kept five for lunch, which the cooks at the lodge were happy to add to the menu.  Great salmon fishing is also available nearby starting near the end of June.

We pushed further north to L’Anse aux Meadows, site of the Viking colony that existed for several years on the very northern tip of Newfoundland 1000 years ago.  Once again, the site is beautifully developed with a new interpretive center, recreated sod huts equipped with all the gear the Vikings may have had in those days.  After playing with very heavy and cold swords, helmets and shields, putting furs around our shoulders and talking with the guide dressed in ancient Norse costume, we walked a short trail where the actual village remains were archaeologically explored and then reinterred.  The area was several degrees warmer then, with higher sea levels, making it much more habitable than it is at present.  The stories of Leif Erikson, son of Erik the Red, who led the Vikings in this quest, were orally passed down for 300 years in the Icelandic Sagas before being committed to writing.  Standing where they stood a millennium ago on these barren shores, looking out to sea as spring icebergs float by, it is hard to imagine these ancient sailors eking out a life here.  On the rockweed covered shore, a group of four hen common eiders escorted their just hatched downy ducklings to the water for their first visit to the sea.  Some things haven’t changed in 1000 years.

We returned to the west coast and drove south to the town of St. Barbe, where we hoped to sail across the Strait of Belle Isle to Labrador.  We arrived to see people stacked up like cordwood at the terminal, waiting to see if the ferry would sail today.  High winds had caused cancellation of yesterday’s trips and today’s were cancelled as well.  Perhaps tomorrow morning, the stormy weather would abate and we all could safely make the crossing.

Perhaps not.  After delays, announcements, more delays, more announcements, we anxiously boarded the ferry at 6:00 PM.  It was raining, cold and windy.  The winds had been ferocious all day.  Would we be able to dock on the other side, where the wind was at its worst?  More importantly, would we toss our Newfoundland cookies?

To be continued...

Questions?  Write sam.fried@live.com 

NEWFOUNDLAND WEST AND NORTH (PART 1)

EASTERN CANADA JOURNEY OF DISCOVERY

NEWFOUNDLAND WEST AND NORTH

JUNE 15-18, 2011

TRINITY, BONAVISTA PENINSULA

TRINITY

Stranded in our St. Barbe motel room, the wind howling at 60 miles per hour, rain blasting sideways like bullets and the temperature hovering in the low 40s, this is not a nice day.  Gulls are attempting to fly, but they are barely able to avoid crashing into our dripping motel window.  The wait for the ferry across the Strait of Belle Isle to Labrador is not promising to be a short one, since the ferry can’t navigate these waters in safety, and we certainly can’t navigate them without seeing some “rainbow hurl”, as the Aussies would say.  I must point out that this horrendous stretch of weather we’ve been experiencing is not typical for Newfoundland at this time of year.  It’s usually much sunnier, warmer and less windy.  But when you travel, you pays your money and you takes your chances.  The last thing anyone will ever guarantee on an ocean island is the weather.  The good news (there’s always good news), is that I now have some time to write and tell you what we’ve been up to the past week since we left the Avalon Peninsula down “south”.

"WHISKERS", HARBOR SEAL

Taking advantage of some decent weather, which is now only a distant memory, we traveled the length of the Bonavista Peninsula, which is a giant arm of land pointing north just after crossing back to the “mainland” area of Newfoundland.  There was a bright glowing object in the sky which we vaguely recalled from Florida, and this encouraged actual tourism with gusto.  Newfoundland is famous for its quaint and often beautiful fishing villages, neatly tucked into narrow coves and bays.  The small town of Trinity, on the east side of the Bonavista Peninsula, has been preserved as a historical site, showing what a fishing village was like when cod was king and a life could be harvested from the sea’s bounty.  Perched on rocky cliffs, brightly painted buildings and white picket fences lined the village streets.  Many of the town’s original community and business structures had been restored and open to tourists for a glimpse into a not very distant, but rapidly disappearing history.  Not long ago, all of the docks, wharves and even the small fishing boats were hand hewn from local firs and spruce trees. That practice has been partially retained here, much to the scenic and cultural enhancement of the town.  Take the time to wander through the entire village, enjoy a Scotsman ice cream cone on the quay and look for harbor seals lounging on the nearby docks and rocks.  

ATLANTIC PUFFINS, ELLISTON

SURF BELOW PUFFIN ROCKS

Continuing north, almost to the tip of the peninsula, we arrived at Elliston, a tiny community that has proclaimed itself “The Root Cellar Capital of the World”.  Boasting over 57 root cellars, there don’t seem to be any other likely contenders.  We weren’t there for the turnips, potatoes or other buried treasures, however.  Elliston has a large Atlantic Puffin colony THAT CAN BE VIEWED CLOSELY FROM LAND!  For those of us who have a tendency toward mal de mer, the notion of puffin-watching from terra firma is most appealing.  Just past Sandy Cove on Maberly Road, the well-marked site is a former headland that has cracked apart in several places, forming an amazing series of huge rocks in the sea.  The first three or four are connected by land bridges, but the last is completely cut off.  With its grassy top, it is a perfect spot for these colorfully beaked little alcids to call home.  Only 50 yards away, we watched the puffins coming and going, checking out potential nest burrows, whirring in groups around the cliffs like the wind-up bathtub toy air force.  With the deep blue sea crashing on ragged rocks about 100 feet below us, the scene could not have been more perfect!  Nearby is the town of Bonavista, a larger fishing port with a beautiful lighthouse and yes, a few more puffins.

SAM PHOTOGRAPHING PUFFINS

SAM PHOTOGRAPHING PUFFINS

ATLANTIC PUFFIN

We made our way south along the western side of Bonavista Peninsula, passing through towns named Heart’s Desire, Heart’s Delight and Heart’s Content, followed by Dildo.  Newfoundland fishermen named their villages with their feelings about the area.  Some were happy, some sad.  I’m not sure about Dildo.

GALE ON THE TEE, TERRA NOVA RESORT

Beautiful Terra Nova National Park was next on the hit parade.  We stayed at adjacent Terra Nova Resort & Golf Community (www.terranovagolf.com), which looks and feels like it’s part of the park, but isn’t.  The resort has a highly rated championship 18-hole course (Twin Rivers) and an excellent 9-holer (Eagle Creek) for those with less time, beginners, kids and families.  Twin Rivers is sculpted through the boreal forest, winding its way between the raging Northwest and Salmon Rivers, each of which beautifully frame several holes.  Playing 18 here is as close to wilderness golf as you can find.  There are no structures on the course other than tee boxes, greens, cart paths and bridges over the rivers.  The first hole is dramatically backed by the Atlantic Ocean -  the world’s second largest  water hazard.  You’ll find yourself frequently stopping to take photos, or wishing that you had a fly rod in your bag instead of that extra wedge.  Three kinds of trout and Atlantic Salmon live in these wild raging waters of the north.  Many birds were singing in the dense forest, primarily Swainson’s Thrush, Black-throated Green and Northern Waterthrush warblers and several Black-backed Woodpeckers flew across fairways.  There were moose tracks in the bogs as well as piles of moose calling cards.  Black flies and mosquitoes can be a problem, so make sure to carry insect repellent.

Our friends back at Harbour Grace had made a parting gift to us of home-made moose sausages and steaks, so we grilled them for lunch.  The sausages were mild and tasty.  The steaks were fairly strong tasting, like venison, but sliced up thinly and dumped into soup made for an excellent north country stew.

Terra Nova National Park is perfect for family groups who like to camp.  Set on the shores of Newman Sound, there are spacious campsites, a multitude of trails, activities for children, gorgeous scenery, boating and much opportunity for a general enjoyment of nature.  We had the opportunity to take a small boat ride on the sound with two biologists and an artist who work for Parks Canada.  As we tooled around islands, rocks and bays, we were shown a nest colony of both Arctic and Common Terns, a Bald Eagle that built its aerie on a rock promontory, and island-dwelling puffins, murres and guillemots.  It doesn’t get much better than that.

10th HOLE AT HUMBER VALLEY

Reverting to form, the weather the next morning was absolutely atrocious - rain, fog and cold.  Instead of touring some of the outlying peninsulas on the north central coast, we drove directly to our next night’s stay at The Lodge at Humber Valley Resort   Along the way, we listened to a local radio station, where the highlight was a “moose alert” for a bull wandering near the highway.  About 20 miles south of Deer Lake (western Newfoundland’s largest airport, which receives non-stops from Europe and Canada), the Humber Valley Resort is a very unusual  community.  Overlooking large Deer Lake and the magnificent Humber River, the resort was originally developed as a grand scheme for wealthy Brits and Europeans to have “wilderness” homes in Newfoundland with all the amenities.  About 300 luxury 3-5 bedroom chalets were built and sold about 10 years ago.  Then the real estate market collapsed, the value of Canadian currency drastically increased, the world-wide economy went south, the developers went bankrupt and the value of these homes was reduced by 2/3.  Most were never occupied or rented, leaving the highest class ghost town you could ever imagine.  Meanwhile, a fantastic golf course, designed by Canadian Doug Carrick, was built on the side of the mountain as the anchor of the resort.  That shut down for a year as well, until being purchased by locals who have restored it to one of the finest and most majestic courses I have ever had the pleasure to play.  Most courses have one “signature” hole.  This one has five or six and the rest are nothing short of phenomenal in their layout, shaping and views that take full advantage of the topography.  Each hole is a wonderment and this course can and should be played many times.  If you are a golfer, come here. And stay in one of the chalets operated by delightful New Zealanders turned Brits turned Newfoundlanders Simon and Jean Burch (www.humbervalleylodges.com), who offer “stay and play” packages .  Their chalets include everything you would like to have in your dream home, including a bar, pool room, wide screen TV’s, jacuzzi, outdoor hot tub, huge stone fireplace and expansive brand-new gourmet kitchen.  If you fish, the Humber River is a world-class Atlantic Salmon stream, where 30-40 lb. fish are caught every year.  Other activities, like hiking, birding, canoeing, horse riding, cycling are nearby.  I can’t wait to return with a group of friends.

To be continued...

Questions?  Write sam.fried@live.com

THE AVALON PENINSULA, PART 2

EASTERN CANADA JOURNEY OF DISCOVERY

THE AVALON PENINSULA  (Part 2)

JUNE 9-14, 2011

Cape St. Mary's Ecological Reserve

Gale at Cape St. Mary's

Courting Gannets

The following day was devoted to a 200 mile round trip to Cape St. Mary’s Ecological Preserve (800-563-6353 for more info), on the southwest tip of the Avalon Peninsula.  World-renowned as the only place to see a huge Northern Gannett colony from land, the drawback is that it is usually shrouded in fog so thick that you might as well be inside a cotton ball.  If you go, try and pick a day with winds from the north or northwest, which will blow the fog out to sea.  Otherwise, it’s quite chancy.  We were lucky, beyond belief.  The wind pushed the fog away, the afternoon sun miraculously appeared and the gannet colony was lit up like the bright lights of Broadway.  Above the huge rock on which most of the colony of 11,000 nests, a constant cloud of gannets circled, like the white flakes in a snow globe that has just been shaken.  Except these flakes never stopped.  A very easy one mile cliff top trail from the new Visitor Center leads to the colony, providing views of the colony from all sides, including the huge number of nesting common murres and black-legged kittiwakes that fill every fault line in the cliffs like rows of pearls.  As you walk through the moorish grassland, listen for the tinkling song of horned larks and the buzzy trills of savannah sparrows, which you may see singing from lichen crusted rocks.  Bald eagles perch nearby, in hopes of an easy meal, while common ravens ominously circle, looking for an egg or chick to steal.  Gale even saw one shove a kittiwake (“tickleace” in local parlance) off its nest, grab the egg and make off with it.  That’s what a food chain is all about.

Bald Eagle at Cape St. Mary's

Gannet Nest Restaurant offering

The trail terminates at a comfortable perch not 50 feet from the main gannet nesting area.  The squawking can be loud, as the birds wheel and dive, sometimes ten feet away, and from nests that are within inches of each other.  They may complain about their nearby neighbors, but their courtship displays are sensational.  Intertwining their toasted marshmallow colored heads, they slap their blue and black-lined beaks together after one delivers a bit of seaweed for the shallow nest.  The pair bonds for life and one egg is laid per year.  Strictly fish eaters, gannets are built like pointy torpedoes.  As they fish from great heights, they plunge-dive into the ocean, folding their wings at the last moment to enter the water like an arrow.  When hundreds of birds do this at once, it’s an unforgettable aerial display.

There’s not much to accommodate tourists near Cape St. Mary’s, but right near the entrance road is the Gannet’s Nest Restaurant (www.gannetsnest.com), where you can not only enjoy super fresh cod and tasty seafood chowder, but also moose stew, moose soup(!) and purchase jars of moose and rabbit meat.  The cod was great, but you do have to try moose meat.  It’s very light tasting, low in fat and you can tell your friends you ate Bullwinkle.

Snowy Owl at Salmonier nature Park

If you have time on the way to or from Cape St. Mary’s, and you enjoy zoos, make a stop at the Salmonier Nature Park (www.env.gov.nl.ca/env/snp), a very unique facility that displays several local animals.  The park is free and features a 1.5 mile boardwalk through the boreal forest.  Every two hundred yards or so is an enclosure, most of them very spacious, that holds creatures such as snowy owl, moose, Canadian lynx, Newfoundland marten, peregrine falcon, beaver, bald eagle, caribou, arctic and red foxes.  

Our final day on Avalon Peninsula brought us to the towns of Cupids, Bay Roberts and Harbour Grace near Trinity Bay.  Cupids is the birthplace of the English in Canada, having been founded in 1610 by Captain John Guy, who was the brother of Sir Walter Raleigh.  Their is an excellent interpretive center detailing the area’s history.  To understand the development of Newfoundland, you have to appreciate that almost every town in the province was originally built on a protected inlet from the sea, where fishermen could row their fragile hand-made dories and set their hand-made nets in the sea, to haul in a catch of cod to dry on racks, salt in barrels and sell to foreign markets.  It was a hard and dangerous life and to make the fishing easier, the towns were built near the mouth of the inlet, close to the ocean.  There were few roads and virtually all commerce was done by sea.  In the 1950s, roads and services started to arrive at these “outports”, as they were known, including outboard motors, bigger boats and factory made equipment.  The townspeople gradually migrated back toward the end of the bay, where it was more protected from the violent storms that frequented these coasts, especially in winter, which is most of the time here.  At the present, the old towns have all but been completely abandoned and modern villages have replaced them.  In 1992, when the fishing moratorium was imposed due to the collapse of the fishery on the Grand Banks, the old way of life ended in all but the most isolated outports.  70,000 people whose lives were dependent on the fishing industry left Newfoundland permanently.  

Which brings us back to Cupids.  The entire town was originally built on a jut of land called Burnt Head, but now no one lives there.  Just meadows and swales where houses and lanes and small subsistence gardens used to be.  And the sea.  Endlessly frothing and foaming and crashing amongst the ragged rocks, it’s hard to imagine what life must have been like to go out to sea in a small open boat every day for survival.  At present, the end of the road is the beginning of a scenic trail that circles Burnt Head and takes about an hour to walk, including stopping to see fox sparrows and yellow warblers.  Don’t miss it.  And while your there, stay and dine at the reasonably priced Cupids Haven B&B (www.cupidshaven.ca), in a beautifully converted Anglican Church that was built to serve the town that is no longer there.  Try the partridgeberry pudding, a local delight.

Sam and Gale on Bay Roberts

Mussels and Newfie Beer

Bay Roberts is similar, but much larger than Cupids, and the tourism office went all out for us.  The town manager, Pat Doyle, took us out in his sturdy fishing boat for a spin around the bay, followed by a mussel and snow crab “boil” on a stony beach where the old town used to be.  Both were cooked in fresh, cold sea water, scooped right out of the incredibly clear water at our feet.  I ate the mussels like they were popcorn, then stuffed myself on the fresh crab.  As soon as the crab is cooked, they “shock” it in ice cold sea water and slit the legs open.  The meat pops out so easily it was like having a lobster.  There is much United States history in Bay Roberts, where a special cable building was built for WW I & II to oversee communications between the US and its European allies during the wars, enabling Roosevelt and Churchill converse from this base.  

Snow Crabs

Rose Manor Inn

We stayed in the next bay over, Harbor Grace, at the delightful Rose Manor Inn (www.therosemanor.com), a B&B built in 1878 and painstakingly and lovingly restored by its current owners.  With only four elegantly decorated rooms, it is perfectly quaint and charming.  Our room was the Peter Easton, named after the most powerful pirate in the western hemisphere in 1610 and based his operations in Newfoundland.  Next door was the Amelia Earhart room, who departed North America from Harbour Grace on her ill-fated flight around the globe.

Our flight around the Avalon Peninsula had come to a conclusion, as must this chapter of our story.

To be continued...

Questions?  Write sam.fried@live.com 

THE AVALON PENINSULA, PART 1

EASTERN CANADA JOURNEY OF DISCOVERY

THE AVALON PENINSULA  (Part 1)

JUNE 9-14, 2011

Emerging from the maw of the ferry like Jonah being coughed up by the whale, we headed north on the Trans Canada Highway to spend the night in Corner Brook, Newfoundland’s second largest city.  We had to remember to reset the clocks because Newfoundland Time is in the only 1/2 hour time zone in the world.  As soon as you get off the ferry, it is apparent why all Canadians affectionately refer to Newfoundland as “The Rock”, since it seems as if that’s all there is - a singular gigantic rock covered by a thin layer of acidic soil, dressed with scruffy stunted trees, grass and water.  Due to the impenetrable granitic underpinnings, telephone and power poles lining the road have to be supported  by “rock paddocks”, crates of stones around the base of each pole. Not a great location for agriculture, but spectacular for scenery, especially when you add in the crashing north Atlantic surf.

Although the June days are long here, and the evenings seem even more prolonged due to the angular descent of the boreal sun, we had to keep a watchful eye for moose along the road.  These long-legged 1000 pound ungulates cause many serious road accidents each year, and evening is the most dangerous time.  

We arose early the next morning for our easy 700 km (420 mile) drive across southern Newfoundland to the capital city of St. John’s, which would be our headquarters for exploring the Avalon Peninsula.  Spring was just beginning to show its face here, and the hills were a riot of greens - dark balsam firs and black spruce, mixed with the bright hues of emerging aspen, birch, willow and maple.  There seemed to be a new pond, lake or river, each more beautiful than the last, around every bend of the road.  Vehicles were sporadically parked along the highway and we could see fly-fishermen artfully casting for the trout and salmon that are abundant in the dark tannin-stained waters.  

As we drove past the city of Gander, our thoughts turned to the days immediately after  9/11, when numerous planes in transit were ordered grounded.  Dozens of passenger flights ended up at the old military air base in Gander, built to service US planes during WW II, where generous Newfoundlanders warmly provided homes and hospitality for the stranded passengers until the flight ban was lifted several days later.

Sprawling like a giant sea star from the southeastern corner of Newfoundland, the Avalon Peninsula holds 40% of the province’s population, which doesn’t say much, since there are only half a million residents spread out out over this vast territory, including Labrador, which has only 4% of the population. Most Americans don’t seem to have much knowledge of this seemingly remote Canadian province, but here are some startling facts: 

- Newfoundland and Labrador was a separate country until 1949, when the province narrowly voted to to become confederated with Canada; due to many ties with the United States, there was a strong movement to become what would have been the 49th state!  Numerous Newfoundlanders have relatives in the USA, especially in New England.

- The Avalon Peninsula is the closest area in North America to continental Europe and as a result, was settled by Europeans long before most other areas of the United States

- John Cabot first made landfall in North America in 1497 by sailing along the coast of the Avalon Peninsula

- Basque whalers and cod fishermen were probably working the Grand Banks and encamped in Newfoundland and Labrador before Columbus sailed the ocean blue

- The Grand Banks was the foremost fishery in the world, especially for abundant “king  cod”, attracting fishing fleets from dozens of nations for almost 500 years until it became over fished within the past 30 years, resulting in a fishing moratorium enacted in 1992

- The first schools and courthouse in North America were in Newfoundland

- During World Wars I&II, the United States established numerous military bases in N&L , using it as a staging area for deployment to and from Europe for troops and supplies

- Until the 1980s, when commercial airplanes became able to carry sufficient fuel, almost all trans-atlantic flights stopped in N&L for refueling

St. John's Harbor

St. John’s has become an upscale, cosmopolitan city in the last 20 years, featuring trendy restaurants, office towers, all sorts of hotels, micro-breweries,  a convention center and every amenity a visitor could hope for.   Duckworth Street seemed to have the widest array of international and local eateries, while several great pubs fronted  Water Street.  We stayed at the Sheraton, overlooking the harbor and much of the area’s incredible history.  Signal Hill, perched high above the entrance to the harbor, was the site of ship to land flag communication since the 1600s and ultimately, the first wireless transmission between North America and Europe in 1901 by Guglielmo Marconi.  In 1762, the French surrendered control of the area to the British after “The Battle of Signal Hill.”  The United States maintained anti-aircraft guns here during WWII.

Two restaurants to recommend: high-priced, but excellent, is Portabello on Duckworth Street, offering excellent local seafood and of course, a mushroom soup that will bring tears to your eyes.  Just down the road, much more reasonably priced, was delicious fare at Bagel Cafe, with everything from breakfast to snow crabs and blackened salmon for dinner in a cozy atmosphere.

Green Island, Witless Bay Ecological Reserve

There is an abundance of activities to enjoy on the Avalon Peninsula and being birders and wildlife junkies, we chose to go for the fruits of the sea.  Just south of St. John’s  is the Witless Bay Ecological Reserve, established to protect the millions of seabirds that nest on the preserve’s four islands.  Over a quarter million Atlantic Puffins nest here, along with millions of Common Murres and Leach’s Storm-petrels, with smaller numbers of Razorbills, Thick-billed Murres, Northern Fulmars and several other species. These birds all are totally pelagic, which means they only come to land to nest, otherwise spending their entire lives at sea.  I can describe the experience, but until you personally see an immense torrent of birds pour off a cliff like a waterfall without even appearing to diminish the number of birds still there, it’s hard to picture.  Watching the puffins attempts at flying always brings a smile, even to the most hard core birders, as these wind-up bathtub toys wildly flap their wings to gain altitude and then crash into either water or ground when they land.  They are designed for diving and graceful “flying” under water, using their long narrow wings and rear mounted feet for rudders, like a seal.  Puffins can hold up to 15 small fish in their colorful beaks at one time.

Atlantic Puffin

Dancing a Jig on Obrien's Boat

Razorbills

You used to have find a willing fisherman to take you out to the islands but now an industry has sprung up for seabird and whale watching tours.  We highly recommend O’Brien’s (www.obriensboattours.com) in Bay Bulls, whose boat not only provides excellent descriptions by a naturalist, but live singing of Scottish and Irish sea shanties.  One of the crew may even grab your hand to dance a jig.  During July, a small fish called capelin come in to shore by the zillions themselves, to “roll” and lay eggs on the beaches.  The birds and whales rely on them for food, so they also come close to shore and can put on quite a show.  Just remember: it’s cold out there on the sea.  No matter how sunny and warm it may be on land, the water temperature rarely gets above 40 degrees Fahrenheit, so that’s what you’ll be dealing with as you enjoy close-up views of zillions of birds.

To be continued...

Questions?  Write sam.fried@live.com